26th
Jma El Fnna | A Method for Shopping
I’ve spent a lot of time in Jma El Fnna over the last two years, and I’ve learned a few very useful things about being a successful shopper. These tips are for foreign shoppers on a budget. If you have things to add or comments, please send them my way!
Tips for Shopping and Bargaining in the Medina
1. Say “salam” when you enter a store. Say “bislama” when you leave. When you make eye contact with a seller, say “salam” and smile…even when he’s just watching you walk by. Ignoring shop owners (even ones you will not interact with) is very rude in Moroccan culture. If you are being rudely engaged by a shop owner, say “salam” and then ignore him.
2. Ask permission to touch something. This reinforces the professional environment of the shop and makes sure that shop owner feels like you’re his client or guest.
3. If you don’t see anything you like, excuse yourself. Don’t ask the shop owner to show you things (unless you’re sure you want to bargain for the object). If he shows you something, he’ll have greater hopes that you’re going to purchase it eventually. If you don’t purchase something but have asked to see things, he’ll feel like his time is being wasted. If he’s insistent you stay, smile but be firm. The best, most honest shop keepers, I find, let you go easily and say you’re always welcome to come back.
4. If you see something you like, be prepared to banter a bit before talking about the price/business. Moroccans are very curious and warm people. Be open about where you’re from and why you’re in Morocco. If you seem unfriendly, the shop keeper will be less willing to negotiate with you, will treat you like a typical tourist. Joking, smiling and being friendly will make negotiation easier and the experience more pleasant for you both. Be upbeat, polite and firm as much as possible.
5. As you begin to bargain for the item, it’s good to have the price you’re willing to pay (not the price it should be because that is the objects actual value) in mind. Do not assume that any price you hear is inflated by 200% or more. Over time, I’ve come to understand the purchasing power of the money in Morocco and can make a fair estimate. In Moroccan culture, discussing how much someone paid for something is very normal since there is no public area where prices are displayed for all to see. If you see something you like on someone, ask how much they got it for and where. It’s normal! One strategy I try, especially in new cities, is to pick one object (like a ubiquitous bracelet or scarf). Each time I see it in a shop, I ask for its price and make a mental note. From learning the price of the same object at multiple stands, I can better gage how each merchant is pricing things in his shop, and maybe what the best price is.
6. If the merchant is not lowering his price enough, go into more explanation about why you are willing to pay your price and not his. Many Moroccan merchants in the medina like to feel helpful and sometimes giving them a greater part of the story helps them make their bargaining decisions more in your favor. When I tell people where I live in Morocco, what my job is, why I want to buy the object in question, and that I come to medina lot… it always helps.
7. You’ve tried everything. He’s not budging: What do you do? Start with god phrases. If you can speak some Tashelheet, show off your language skills… it’s always a plus and at least usually cuts the tension with some laughter. Warning: do not use darija so as to make the vendor feel like he’s been tricked, that you’re on to him because you’re like a local. It could hurt his pride and make it more difficult to do business. Do not beg. Do everything possible not to make the shop keeper loose face in lowering his price. If you want to buy two of the item, offer to do so and ask for a discount. Not working still? Move on to pulling out the exact amount of money you are willing to pay and saying “that’s all I have.” Be prepared to walk if the answer is still no. Only merchants who are not making much money follow you out of their shop and tell you that they’ll lower the price.
8. Finally, a note for resident shoppers: develop relationships with vendors. Select the guy you like and visit him when you go shopping. Get to know him, bring your friends to shop at his store, buy things from him when you can. Moroccans who know that you come directly to them when you need something will really respect this client/vendor relationship and reward you to keep it. In Marrakech, I have a teapot guy, a silver guy, scarf guys… they always give me the best prices possible.
9. Bargaining is like a game of strategy, chicken and economics. One party will feel that he or she has “lost.” It’s OK to loose some. It’s how money moves around. Some shoppers make the mistake of putting on their war face and (while it works sometimes) it doesn’t always work.
Good luck!
